Wednesday, February 15, 2012

sewing101: facings

For this week's sewing 101, let's talk about facing. Facings are so easy to make and give your garment a professional finish, without a full lining. Of course you can face and line a garment, which makes it so nice and fancy on the inside. But facings on their own are more economical and great for keeping clothing lightweight. 
I use facings the most in necklines. There are lots of ways to finish garment necklines, but facings are my favorite, so nice and clean! You can also face the fronts of blouses or coats with button plackets, waistbands and sleeves. 

This tutorial is for a neckline facing, but you can apply the same principles to facing any part of your garment.
Lay the scrap over the top of the bodice piece and trace the neckline. Then draw the shoulder and center seams down about 2". You may have to adjust that measurement depending on the size of clothing you are making. If you're making a baby dress 2" might be way too much facing.
 Now, use the same measurement (2" for this example) and draw dots to mark two inches from the neckline. Since it is curved, this will help us draw an even line for the bottom edge of the facing.
Lots of dots will make it easier!
 Connect all the dots to complete your pattern piece.
Repeat for the front neckline and cut out your pieces. I like to interface the facings for a little more stability. So do that if you want also. Lay out the pieces how you will sew them together. 
Then pin and sew.
Press the seams open.
 And serge (or zig-zag) the bottom edge.
Now pin your facing to the bodice neckline with right sides together and sew it on.
 Sew it on.
Then clip the seam allowance or use pinking shears (I recommend ginghers). Clipping the seam will allow your neckline to curve without seam allowance pulling it weird ways.
Press the seam allowance toward the facing and stitch it to the facing. You'll run a line of stitching about 1/8" away from the seam. The stitching should be on the facing piece. This is called understitching and will help pull your facing to the inside of the garment so you don't see it. 
That's it! You're done! Doesn't it look nice?


Also check out my interfacing guide, where to get pattern paper and more sewing 101 lessons!

Pin It!

11 comments:

  1. Great tutorial! I will have to keep this in mind when making my daughters spring/summer clothes. I actually just got a pattern that I order in and it calls for a full lining, something I'm not crazy about for hot southern summers! And pinking shears, yes I have some, but never thought to use them for "clipping", oh what a time/sanity saver that will be! :)

    Keep up the great work!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Great tutorial! I will have to keep this in mind when making my daughters spring/summer clothes. I actually just got a pattern that I order in and it calls for a full lining, something I'm not crazy about for hot southern summers! And pinking shears, yes I have some, but never thought to use them for "clipping", oh what a time/sanity saver that will be! :)

    Keep up the great work!

    ReplyDelete
  3. This post was really helpful! I'm always looking to learn new techniques. Thanks for sharing this...can't wait to try it on my next project (^_^)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I generally just skip over sewing 101 posts because it's all stuff I know how to do, or I've seen tutorials everywhere else for it. But this is a first, and this is definitely something I've been wanting to learn. Thank you!!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Great idea to use the pinking shears. I need to get me a pair!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Definitely saving on my Tutorial board on pinterest! Thanks Kate!

    ReplyDelete
  7. oh my. you made this seem so easy and doable!!! definitely going to remember the pinking shears next time!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Thank you! I've had a few patterns now that have described this process in the most confusing way. I'm ignoring them now and going with this!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Thanks for the tutorial - it was a great review from my 4-H days when my mom was right next to me, helping me with the interfacing and the understitching :)

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thanks for posting the tutorial, it´s really a great help!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Thank you! I've been wondering what understitching is. :)

    ReplyDelete